One of our customers wanted me to see if I could fix a concrete pot that had broken in half. In the past I used thin set mortar to make these repairs , which has done a fairly good job, but here I am going to use something different and I tell you, it does a great job. Go down to the auto parts shop and ask for a quart or gallon ( depending on size of job, although it would be good to have some around the house for other repairs ) of Bondo auto body filler with hardener. I used a brand called Cross Fire 15270 Body Filler and I’m sure there are other brands. This is a two-part mix , the filler and the hardener. Don’t go getting all nervous about the hardener stuff, this turns out to be quite easy.

Stuff you’ll need, besides something to repair, and there is going to be many things that can be put back together, or filled, or built up, joined or created with auto body filler.

This is what I needed for this particular job:

A gallon of Auto Body Filler with hardener as mentioned above ( I wanted left overs )

An 8″ or 12″ tile to mix on ( can also use glass , plywood, old dinner plate, something flat and smooth )

Paint can opener

A Rag

A putty knife and/or paint stick

Sander ( use a vibrating type with 80 grit paper, get some finer paper to finish with )

Bleach and Brush in this case to clean the jagged edges

Now follow me on the basic method I’m using and adapt it to your particular project be it a concrete statue, ( which incidentally I’ll be doing in a couple of days ) pot, bird bath, plaque or whatever.

Well, this is what I have to start with. It’s a large heavy concrete pot some 22″ tall and 26″ in diameter,about 125 lbs.. Upon closer look you may see some other scares on this pot as I have repaired it in other areas several years before this . I used  modified thin set for those repairs and it has held well especially given the stress that has caused this to happen.
I first cleaned the jagged edge with water and chlorine to get rid of any dirt and dust and kill any fungus, mold, etc that may be present. I didn’t need more than a cup of chlorine per gallon of water and a good stiff brush. I brushed the mix in and washed it off trying not to get bleached spots on my clothes.  After cleaning , the areas to be bonded must be allowed to dry out completely. Try a hair dryer or heat gun to speed up the drying if you’re in a hurry. Then roll up some burlap or old rags, blankets , or use a couple of pieces of wood, or whatever will keep the pot steady while you’re working on it. With help, I test fit the pieces together and make a pencil mark randomly across the seam where the pieces join. This will help me position the pieces when I’m ready to bond them. Now I separate them and position then so I can easily and quickly apply the body filler.

The body filler can be purchased in quarts or gallons, and comes with a tube of hardener.

Opening the can, I see that the filler is the consistency of peanut butter.( color will vary between brands ) 

I place enough filler on the mixing surface to do the job. In this case better to have too much then too little because I’ll only get one go at it.I squeeze out some hardener to approximate the directions on the can, plus a little more for good measure,  just don’t be too stingy , I can always buy more hardener if I need to for future projects. 

Use the putty knife or paint stick and stir in the hardener until you get a uniform color.

 

The arbor pictured, is installed at our store, Mr. Twitter’s Garden and Gift Emporium. I was recently commissioned to build one for a customer who wanted to stain it themselves, except for the bird house stain which they liked so I stained it. I thought what a great opportunity to begin this blog adventure with. So let me explain some things about this arbor and how to go about constructing it. I know some of you will just skip over this stuff and work right off the plans, which is OK, I’ve been known to do that myself. What I want to do with this project and the others to come, is to explain, in simple layman’s terms, exactly what you will be doing and what you should be thinking about. I welcome your comments, suggestions, criticisms and ideas, PLEASE feel free.

The total height from bottom of sides to top of bird house is 115 3/4″ and if you bury it in the ground 12 to 15 inches the height of the pass through will be 78″ to 82″. The width of the pass through is 48″ and you could stretch it to maybe 50″ , but if you want it wider you would use longer boards for the top piece. The top holds a 30″ plastic planter box, on each side of the bird house, which can be taken out, filled with plants and placed in position again.The bird house can be lifted out for cleaning as necessary. This bird house has a slate roof, but it can just as well be of cedar clapboard or shakes, metal, wood, or actual roof shingles. On each end of the arbor top there is an 18″ rod for hanging flower baskets, chimes, bird feeders, etc. The four vertical rods on each side will give your vines something to grow on, and the cutouts on the uprights give it an airy, open look. The dimension here are based on the use of treated building lumber which you can purchase at your local lumber or building supply store. In the list of materials I give both the “nominal” and the actual size of the lumber. Treated lumber will last, is dense and takes a pounding outdoors. It can be stained with a solid or semi transparent stain as you are constructing it, if you desire. I would not suggest paint, oil or latex because it will peel or start to flake off and you couldn’t paint it until the wood has cured for at least a year, and who would want to paint after it’s all together. Besides, stain comes in many colors and some can even be made to order, ask at your local paint store. If left natural it will age to a weathered gray.

If you use some other type of lumber, some dimensions may have to be changed on the plan. If you use untreated building lumber expect that any part buried in the ground will rot relatively quickly. You could place it on a deck supported be a railing on each side, or It could be set on pavers and held up by a fence on each side.

This is the MATERIAL LIST :  All treated building lumber

3    pieces 2 x 8 x 8′ ( Actual size  1 1/2 x 7 1/4 x 8′ )  ( top )

4   pieces 2 x 6 x 10′ ( Actual size  1 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 10′ )  ( uprights )

1   piece   2 x 12 x 8′ 9  ( Actual size  1 1/2 x 11 1/4″ x 8′ )  ( bird house )

12          4″ x  3/8″ carriage bolts with washers and nuts.

8            3/8″x 72″  round steel rods

2            3/8 x 18″ round steel rods

2            30″ plastic planter boxes

2            15 1/4″ x 12″  pieces roofing slate ( clapboard, metal. wood or whatever )

1          Quart stain, you pick the color, I like semi-transparent water base , it cleans easier

1            small box of 10 x 3 1/2″ coated star drive deck screws

That’s it, all the stuff for this Arbor. Now when you pick out lumber, look for straightness, fewer knots and no defects. The 2 x 8 are for the top pieces, the 2 x 6  are for the uprights and the 2 x 12 is for the bird house. A note here is that I’m using a piece of 2 x 12, I had, for the bird house sides and was able to install it with the grain running vertically. But if you don’t have any 2 x 12 pieces,( you only need it to be 20″ long to get both pieces) a 2  x 10 will work if installed with the grain horizontally, that way you can cut it to the 10 1/2″ length it has to be to hold the bird house front and back slightly loose. On the carriage bolts , if you can find 3/8″ x 3 1/2″ length, they will work. The 3/8″ steel rod can be purchased at a local steel supply company. Wipe each steel rod clean with some paint thinner or mineral spirits and spray paint them with rust oleum paint, I used flat black. The 30″ plastic planter boxes can be gotten from any garden shop or hardware store, dark green looks good, not that you see much when it’s installed. just be sure to poke out the plugs in the bottom for drainage. Did I say there are also drainage holes in the woodbox. ( Don’t forget to water those plants). The roofing slate can be purchased at a local roofing supply company or slate supply company, especially if you live near the Fair Haven, Vermont area or the Granville, NY area. These areas have many slate producers. But, if no slate, there are many other materials to choose from. You can also order the slate and/or plastic planter boxes from me at Mr. Twitter’s.

Tools to have :

Pencil

Tape Measure

Circular Saw  and/or Table Saw

12″ Square or Carpenter’s Square

2″ Forstner bit or 2″ Keyhole Saw ( to drill out the cutout ends )

1 1/2″ Forstner Bit, or Keyhole Saw, or Speed Bore Bit ( for bird house hole )

2″ Round Rasp Bit ( to clean up cut outs )

Drill Press  and/or Power Hand Drill

Reciprocating Saw

Router

1/2″ Round Over Bit for router

Power Screw Gun with star bit for star drive  deck screws

1/2″ Wood Drill ( for rod holes and the carriage bolt holes )

3/4″ Wood Drill ( for drain holes )

80 Grit Sand Paper and/or a Belt Sander with 80 grit sanding belt

12″ Wood Clamp

Adjustable Wrench or 9/16″ socket to tighten carriage bolts

So let’s get started. Take a good look at the plans and the pictures, to give yourself an overview of where we’re going. If you’re not good at reading plans, no problem, just do exactly what I describe in the directions and pictures. When you’re ready, follow along with me and you’ll have a nice piece of work before you know it.  That’s the good thing about this, you can work at your own pace.

UPRIGHT PIECES

Pick the upper end of each  2 x 6 x 10′, this should be the best end as the other end will be buried in the ground. Place a nice big X on the top end. This is the end all of your measurements will be taken from. Now cut the boards to 102″ long measuring from the top. Note: If you are installing the arbor on a deck or another hard surface where it may be supported by a railing or fence and not buried in the ground you may want to cut these pieces as much as 12″ shorter.

 Pair up these four boards and decide which surfaces will be facing one another and place an A1 and A2 on the first set and B1 and B2 on the second set. Take one board and measuring from the top , using a square, scribe four lines. One at 15 3/4″, one at 44 1/4″, one at 50 1/4″, and the last at 78 3/4″. These lines represent the top and bottom of the cut outs. Another note here:  Because we are using construction lumber which can be slightly warped we will scribe a line for the sides of the cut outs instead of snapping a chalk line. ( OK call me anal ). Anyway, scribe a line 1 3/4″ in from each edge between the upper and lower lines. Place each of the other boards flat beside this first board,top ends flush, and carry over the measured lines, scribing the cut out side lines on each as you did on the first. Note: As an alternative you can eliminate the cut outs all together, if you like, and maybe do an overlay on them in a contrasting color.

Your boards should look like this. Click on picture for larger image and slide show.

This project is a lot easier if you have a drill press. and since I do, I am using a 2″ forstner bit to drill the ends of each cut out. Be sure to place a scrap piece of wood on the bottom side, so when the drill comes through it will not splinter the wood. An alternative would be to use a 2″ keyhole saw in your electric drill. just keep it perpendicular. Another alternative would be to cut the whole thing out with a reciprocating  saw, drill a small hole first to insert the saw blade to begin the cut. Note:  If using the keyhole saw, you may want to drill a 2″ hole in some scape wood,and clamp it over the spot to be drilled as a guide to keep your drill perpendicular. Of course safety glasses and filter mask over your nose and mouth is recommended.

On the drill press I use a roller support to hold up the other end of the board while I drill, you can also use a tall saw horse or a friend.

Drill all cut out ends making sure to stay within the lines

Now you’re going to place each piece on a pair of saw horses or on some blocks on the floor with the lines facing up and cut out the sides of the cutouts using a circular saw. Note: You will need to plunge the saw just ahead of one hole and saw to just before the opposite hole so hold the saw straight, steady and firmly and keep track of where the blade is. Do not be tempted to back up the saw, you’ll just be asking for it. If you are not comfortable with this method, you can use the reciprocating saw to make these cuts just stay on the lines if you want straight edges. In any case the reciprocating saw is handy for finishing the ends after cutting with the circular saw.

Use a 2″ round rasp in your hand drill to clean up the inside of the cut outs especially the round ends where I’m sure you probably made a bo boo or two. Trust me it works great.

Using a router with a 1/2″ round over bit, round the edges on both sides of all cut outs. If you’re purchasing the bit, get one with the ball bearing guide, more money but so much easier. If no router you can use a  rasp and 80 grit sand paper just to soften the edges. Watch out for slivers.

At this point the upright pieces can be sanded and stained if you like. I have not had any trouble staining treated wood even if it is not completely cured. I use water base stains in either solid or semi-transparent colors., and there are lots of colors available. I do not recommend paint, whether oil or latex simply because it will flake off.  Good Work, TAKE A Break.

Arbor Top ( Flower Box Sides )

Cut the two 2 x 8 x 8′ to 93″ long and pick the best surfaces you want facing outward. Note:  If you want a walk through opening greater than 4′ you should use 2 x 8 x 10′ lumber and make the appropriate adjustments to the plan. Draw a line at 10″ and another at 17″ from each end. The design you draw for the ends should not exceed the 10″ line. The 17″ line represents where the outer edge of the uprights will be when assembled. Copy my design or create your own, but don’t get too fancy, you have to cut out four duplicate shapes. The hole in my design is optional if you want a rod for hanging stuff.

Cut it out with a reciprocating saw in one piece so you can use it as a template for the other end or trace the design on paper and  transfer it to the other end. After cutting both ends on the first piece, place it on top of the second piece and use it as a template.

Use the 1/2″ round over bit in the router to round over just the cut ends of each piece. Note : If you would like a rod in each end to hang stuff on , now is the time to measure and drill the 1/2″ holes. Hint : Place a piece of scrap wood on the under side while you drill to help keep the wood from splintering when the drill comes out the bottom.  Hole location I used was 1 1/2″ down and 2″ in from the end.

Place the two pieces together with the bottom edges butted and the inner surfaces facing up and draw a line across the center of each piece at 46 1/2″. These pieces can be sanded and stained now if you like. Your line should be visible through the stain, we will reference this later.

Bottom of Flower Box

Cut a 2 x 8 x 8′ to 67 3/4″ long piece and save the cut off. Draw a line across the center at 33 7/8″. Now locate the drainage holes. Don’t get nervous, locations can be approximate, these locations worked good for me. Drill two 3/4″ holes 3″ in from each end and about 2″ from each edge. Do the same on either side of the center line.

Using the short cut off from the bottom piece, cut two end pieces for the flower box, each should be 7 /1/4″ x 7 1/4″ ( 7 1/4″ is the actual width of a 2 x 8 piece of treated building lumber ).

Sand and stain these pieces, and take a break before we assemble the upper box.

Position the bottom piece against one of the sides matching center lines and screw it in place using  five 3 1/2″ coated star head deck screws, evenly spaced. Note: I use this screw because the heads rarely strip, it will not rust, and the length allowed for good holding strength. You won’t be sorry. Line up and screw the opposite side on.

Fit the end pieces in place with the grain running horizontally so it covers the end of the bottom piece and is flush with the top and bottom of the side pieces. Square it up and screw the ends in place. Hint : use a clamp to tighten the sides against the end piece while you screw it in place. Top section is now complete. good work

Bird house   ( Front and back pieces )

Cut two 2 x 9 1/4″ x 21″ pieces from the 2 x 12. Mark the center of one end on each piece, and draw a line across at 9″ from the same end. Now connect the center mark with the ends of the line. This is the roof angle , cut it out using the circular saw or a reciprocating saw.

Find the center point on the horizontal line and drill a 1 1/2″ hole for the bird house using a forstner bit or keyhole saw and round over the hole with the router. Note: Drilling the back piece is optional depending if you want to see a hole from both directions.

Sides of Bird house

Cut two  pieces 10 1/2″ x 10 /1/2″ from the  2 x 12 and stand each piece upright flat against the inner side wall, grain running vertically and scribe a line even with the top edge of the box. Note: This measurement will allow the birdhouse to fit loosely.

From this line down, scribe a line 1 5/8″ from the edge on both sides and place an X In the area to be cut out with the reciprocating saw. see photos.

Place the arbor top on the floor and hold the bird house parts in place, centered on the box . This should be a loose fit when installed so be sure the bird house sides extend just a fraction wider then the box. If good, sand and stain parts then screw the pieces together.

I cut two pieces of roofing slate to 12 x 15 1/4″, enough to have one piece do each side of the roof with a 1″ over hang on front and back and approx. 1 /1/2″ overhang at the eaves. (lower edge ). Slate can be cut with a lever slate cutter as pictured, which will give a chipped edge on the lower edge of the cut to match the original edges of the slate. Note: Other ways to cut slate would be with a wet saw used to cut ceramic tile, a wet / dry diamond blade in a circular saw or 4″ grinder, a concrete blade in a circular saw or 4″ grinder or a reciprocating saw with a carbide grit coated blade. Position the slate pieces, making sure the top edges are butted and scribe a line 1 3/4″ from the front and back edges where the screws will go. Drill three spaced holes along this line using a wood or metal drill bit. This hole should be slightly larger than the nails you are using. Watch that lower hole, remember the slate overhangs 1 1/2″. Nail slate to roof . take care , not too much, leave a little wiggle room for the slate. Note : Alternative roofing materials could be cedar clapboard, sheet metal, old roofing metal, wood, or any other material you think will hold up to the elements.

Upright Spacers

Using the cut offs from the 2 x 6′s, cut four  2 x 6 x 10 1/4″ pieces and two 2 x 4 x 10 1/4″ pieces. Draw a line down the center of each 2 x 4 x 10 1/4″ piece and measure in from each end 2  5/16″ and 4  5/16″ and drill a 1/2″ hole at each of these four locations.

Mark the center of one  edge lengthwise of each 2 x 6 x 10 1/4″ piece and mark the same hole spacing on each. Drill this 1/2″ hole only 2″ deep. Sand and stain these pieces.

Upright Assembly

From the top of each 2 x 6  upright draw a line on the outside surface at 7 1/4″and mark the center. Center the top edge of the 2 x 6 x 10 1/4″ on the line with the holes facing downward. Draw its outline on the 2 x 6 upright for easier placement when you go to screw it in place.

Center the 2 x 4 x 10 1/4″ piece horizontally between the upper and lower cutouts and scribe a line around its perimeter for placement as before.Carry over the lines to the facing piece of 2 x 6 upright.

 Hint : For assembly, stand the long upright piece on edge and place a 2″ thick piece of scrap wood under the top spacer and a 1″ thick place of scrap under the center spacer to support them while you position and screw them in place. Do not locate and screw the bottom spacer in place yet.

Place and screw the other half of the upright in place and it is ready to insert the steel rods.

Slide four steel rods up through the center spacer and into the top spacer.

Insert the rods into the lower spacer and screw it in place. The uprights are now complete and ready to be attached to the upper piece.

Place the top piece on its side on a flat surface and mark the center on the outside surface. Now measure 2 feet to each side of center and draw a line, this will be the 4 foot pass through opening. Position the uprights to the outside of these lines and slide the top piece between the two halves making sure the ends are flush with the top edge of the box. Use a carpenter square to make sure the uprights are perpendicular to the upper box. Hint : You may want to screw a length of scrap wood between the uprights on the lower end to hold the 4 foot spacing.

Drill three 1/2″ holes in the top of each upright piece as shown for the 3/8″ x 4″ carriage bolts. Position the holes 1 1/2 ” down and 1 1/2″ from each edge and one centered 4 1/2″ down on center from the top edge. Drill , insert and tighten the carriage bolts in place on this side before flipping the unit over to drill and fasten the other side.

Congratulations you’re finished constructing and ready for installation in your garden. Position the arbor upright in the garden location and mark for the holes to encompass the whole lower end of each upright and dug a 15″ deep hole. Place approximately 2″ of crushed stone in the bottom of the hole to allow for drainage. Stand the arbor up in the holes, plumb in place front to back and side to side and fill in the holes, tamping the soil down to compact it. Mount the bird house in place and insert the 30″ window boxes and the short rods on each end if you are using them. Ta daa your finished.

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